six very different looking swatches, differing only in textureBy Anna - 19th February 2023
and its relationship to needle size and garment modification
The idea of gauge has often been misunderstood and caused new knitters a lot of confusion. So maybe it is time for some myth busting.
On the most basic level, gauge is simply a measurement that can be taken in two directions:
Gauge in itself is absolutely independent of the needle size and yarn used, which makes it very useful to communicate fabric characteristics for patterns. Gauge given in a pattern is always measured on the actual fabric of the sample, the starting point of any grading done for the item. This is the most important thing to understand gauge: It only says something about the finished fabric. How this fabric can be achieved will vary for every knitter.
Most commonly, gauge is given measured over 10cm (or 4in. For the sake of precision, centimetres are recommended, but that is coming from a European used to the metric system). A gauge of 24 stitches/10cm means that the final fabric of the sample, after blocking, has 24 stitches in every 10cm horizontally. On this base, sizes are calculated. For some more intricate textures, the measurement can instead be given per pattern repeat, if that is easier to measure. This happens most commonly with cables, as they may pull in the fabric and require a separate gauge to be given. In all-over cabled garments it can also be a lot easier to measure across a pattern repeat that it is to count individual stitches. Make sure to double check the reference for the gauge you are trying to achieve!
Row gauge is often less relevant for the fit of a garment and not given in all patterns. It is also usually a lot harder to change, as needle size seems to be less relevant than knitting style for this characteristic. If a pattern mentions row gauge, it is usually also given over 10cm or, if the texture makes it necessary, per pattern repeat. As vertical measurements are easier to customise, it is often not necessary to match the row gauge of the sample, but deviating from it can cause fit issues and affect yarn usage. This will be addressed later.
Have a look at the swatches below. They are all knit in the same yarn, with the same number of stitches and rows, but different kinds of textures. The fabric dimensions are changed significantly by this parameter alone. Therefore you should always measure the gauge over a piece of fabric that uses the same texture as the item you plan to make.
six very different looking swatches, differing only in texture
Knitting patterns will usually include a “recommended needle size”. In most cases, this is what the designer used to knit the sample and achieve the gauge given in the pattern. If a designer knows that they are knitting more tightly or loosely than the average knitter, that might also be taken into account. The needle size is NOT required to knit the garment. It is merely a reference from were any knitter could start swatching. If you cannot achieve the required gauge with the recommended needle size you are not doing anything wrong. Your knitting style, and sometimes yarn choice, simply means that you need a different needle size to achieve the same fabric characteristics.
When starting to swatch with the recommended, your gauge can be ‘off’ in two directions:
The number of stitches per 10cm is lower than that required for the pattern you are knitting. In the example above, your fabric only has 20st/10cm, but the pattern requires 24st/10cm.
You are knitting too loosely, your stitches are larger than those needed to create the fabric the pattern calls for. In this case, you need to go down a needle size or two to tighten your stitches.
The number of stitches per 10cm is higher than that required for the pattern you are knitting. In the example above, your fabric has 28st/10cm, but the pattern requires only 24st/10cm.
You are knitting too tightly. Your stitches are smaller than those needed to create the fabric the pattern calls for. In this case, you need to go up a needle size or two to loosen your stitches.
Over time you will develop a feeling for your knitting tightness. After a few items, you may not need to swatch any more if you are using similar yarns, as you will already know how they behave and which needle size will give you which gauge. Your mood and stress levels can also affect gauge. Many knitters tighten up when they are stressed. If your gauge changes during a longer term project, you may need to take circumstances into account and adjust your needle size to keep the gauge consistent.
Different kinds of yarn can also affect how a fabric behaves. Bouncy, airy, woollen spun yarns knitted up on the same needles often create a denser fabric than more tightly worsted spun yarns with less bounce. Superwash and non-superwash yarns will also often behave very differently.
There may be times when you are able to get the gauge a pattern requires, but are not happy with the quality of the fabric this gives you. It may be too dense to have the right drape for a shawl or flowy summer garment. Or you would like a sturdier outerwear garment, but your fabric is too open and loose. There are two ways to handle this.
This first is rather obvious: Choose a different yarn. If you substituted another yarn than that recommended in the pattern, chances are you are also getting a different fabric. This can be an intentional change to make the item suit your preferences, but it can also lead to an item that will not match the pattern and therefore not be what you are looking for. In that case, try to choose a yarn that is as close as possible to the one used for the sample. You may need to take several characteristics into account: Is the yarn woollen or worsted spun? Is it superwash treated or not? Is it pure wool, and if so, is it breed specific? Wool from different sheep breeds can have vastly different properties. If it is not pure wool, which other fibre was used? Plant fibres, synthetic fibres and other animals will all behave differently and affect the finished fabric.
The second option requires more work and planning, but will allow you to use the yarn you have chosen: As the first step, keep swatching until you settle on fabric you like in this yarn. Block it as you would the item you are intending to knit and measure the finished gauge. From there, you can attempt to redo the grading of the item if necessary. Some things like shawls, scarves and cowls yu may also be able to just knit the pattern as written, if your gauge is not too far off. This will result in a smaller or larger item, but as long as you are aware of it and have the right amount of yarn (as you may need more than the pattern calls for when knitting a larger item), nothing is holding you back.
Many people will say they didn’t like the fabric they were getting at the required gauge, so they went up or down a few sizes in the pattern and just knitted that. While this is a valid starting point there are a few points to take into consideration:
Is row gauge relevant for this item? Yoke depth for example may not be the same across all sizes, so you may need to make adjustments to get the correct fit. Sleeve shaping is also often written out per row and will need to be reworked if the row gauge is different. In accessories this can also be relevant: A hat can easily go from slouchy to very fitted beanie or vice versa if your row gauge does not match the pattern. This is the most problematic part when simply using another size and you will need to pay close attention.
Are the proportions still correct? If a pattern includes waist shaping, you are proportionally doing more or less changes to the circumference if working at a different gauge. Make sure you are still getting the silhouette you want.